RONA REVISITED
After 42 years away,
Duncan MacSwan visits Rona again, recalling the scenes of his youth.
His account is as follows:
I was brought up on the island of Rona. at Acarsaid
Thioram (Dry Harbour), but I left there forty two years ago. My boyhood days there were
happy and I have many cherished memories of life on that island. Earning
a living on Rona was not an easy task. The ground was difficult to work and
in spring and harvest especially life was hard but the people worked
together, helping each other as
much as they could, and this. and the friendliness which existed
between everyone, made things easier. Owing to the layout of the crofts
it was not possible to use horses and so cultivation was done manually, and hard work it
was too. Seaweed used for manure. This was brought in boats to the shore
and discharged when the tide was right. We carried this seaweed on our
backs up to the crofts. This meant that we had to stop our work on the
crofts and use time, which we could ill afford, carrying creels up to
the rocky shore. This task of collecting and discharging the seaweed
usually took up to ten to twelve days during this time all the able
bodied folk on the island worked liked Trojans
carrying this seaweed up the rocky slopes to the cultivated patches.
There were eight crofts at Acarsaid Thioram some with two families in
one croft. There was at one time, to my memory eighteen families there
including the missionary and the teacher.
Every Thursday at 12 noon the late Alexander MacLennan, who
was the missionary for many years on Rona, held his weekly prayer meeting
and it was always well attended. Everyone stopped work and went faithfully
to this meeting including the people from Dronaguila which is situated
about three miles from Acarsaid Thioram, and the one family from Acarsaid
Mor (Big Harbour). Although life was hard for these people
they still found time to give thanks in to their Maker and remain faithful
in their beliefs.
As
time passed on, most of the young people both male and female, decided
to spread their wings and set off for the big cities in various parts
of the world. This meant that the population of’ Rona consisted
mainly at middle-aged and elderly and they found it even more difficult
to cultivate the rocky ground and earn themselves a living with few
young people to help them.
Portree
on the Isle of Skye was the nearest shopping
centre and was reached by sailing boat. One great benefits about Rona
was that there were was plenty of harbours surrounding the island and
no matter what wind was blowing it was possible to sail right into one
of them. Lobster fishing was very good in the winter and herring was
to be found in every loch at times.The Board
of Agriculture often visited the island. I have seen them there many
times and they always promised the people that they would let them have
land, and new houses, on the south end of Raasay but they never did
keep their word.
In 1914 the war broke out. Many of the young lads were called to the Colours,
including the writer, but when we returned, after the Board of
Agriculture had still not fulfilled their promise. Life on the island had not got
any easier, so in March 1921. under the guidance of John M. MacLeod.
now residing at Clachan, Raasay, seven men from Acarsald Thioram raided
the land on the south end of Raasay namely Fearns and Eyre and
finally as we all know, after much trial and tribulations, they were
allowed to stay there.
The
Board of Agriculture was then forced to buy the island of Raasay from the
Bairds, the proprietors at that time. The people from Rona settled in
various parts of the south end of Raasay, some of them going back to
the places where their fore fathers had been until the Clearance of
the Highlands when they had been forced
to leave the good land in Raasay and attempt to make a living among
the rocks on Rona. As a consequence the island of Rona became uninhabited
within a few years from that date, with the exception of the lighthouse
keepers who still remain on the north-cast coast of Rona.
I
returned to Rona after the war but left again in June 1921, came
to Glasgow and joined the
Merchant Navy and sailed out through
the Bristol Channel to France. In
January 1922 I joined the City of Glasgow Police and since
then have made my home in Glasgow. In 1923, while
on holiday in Fearns, Raasay my uncle, John MacSwan, and I set out in
a small boat for Rona. At this time there was still three families left
at Acarsaid Thioram and my uncle and I spent a night there with my two
aunts. That was the last time I visited this island which was home to
me and where I spent many happy days. But it has always been my desire
to revisit Rona. and particularly Acarsaid Thioram, for my affections
for this island go deep and I remember with love the dear friends, many
of them now departed, who shared with me the years I spent there. This
desire to visit Rona once more did not lessen with the years, but the
opportunity never came my way until this year, while on holiday in Raasay.
I was invited by John M. MacLeod, Calum Gillies and Murdo MacLean to
join them in a fishing trip as far as Rona. I was thrilled at the prospect
of this trip for they promised they would put me ashore at Acarsaid
Thioram and let me visit my old home again.
We
set off about 10a.m. on. Friday,
30th July 1965 armed with food and
fishing tackle. it was a lovely sunny day and the sea was calm. We got
on board the “Active” and set off down the east side of Raasay. The
island of Rona. is six miles long and three miles broad
and lies about 20.22 miles northwards by sea from the south end of Raasay.
When we got to Fearns the engine was slowed down and the lines put out.
We fished right along the coast and as we got to the south end of Kyle~Rona.
on a small island called Sgeir nan Eun (the Birds’ Rock) we spotted
a seal basking in the sunshine. Whenever he saw us he dived into the
sea but not before Murdo MacLean, who had his rifle with him had fired
at hint. He missed him by inches. Murdo and John decided they would
like to go ashore on Sgeir nan Eun to see if there were any more seals
about so the fishing lines were hauled in and Murdo and John went ashore.
Calum and I waited in the boat until they came back. They got on board
and just as we were about to set off again another seal appeared close
to Sgeir nan Eun. Murdo grabbed his rifle and fired and this time he
wounded the seal, but the seal dived quickly and disappeared. Seconds
later he appeared again, Murdo fired and killed him. We took the dead
seal on board and proceeded to Dornaguila where we
went ashore at Rhu an Eireionnach (the Irish Point).
John M. MacLeod went off to see where he was born and brought up and,
while he was away. Calum made a fire and boiled the kettle. The tea
was ready by the time John arrived back and we all tucked in and thoroughly
enjoyed our lunch. When we had finished we went on board once more,
the engine was started and the lines put out again. When we came to
Port Doire nan Earba (the Roe Deer Port) I was put ashore while the
rest carried on northwards. They said they would go on fishing until
I was ready to come aboard.
On going ashore I was amazed to discover that all the cultivated
parts were now a thick wood and whole place was covered with ferns and
bracken. The road which used to lead up to the houses was not to be
found and I had great difficulty in getting through the ferns and bracken
which, in some places was taller than myself. However I persevered
and eventually emerged from the wood about 50 yards from MacKay’s
house. The first thing that met me was a dead lamb. I then proceeded
to Aunt Peggy’s and Aunt Mary’s house and examined round about there.
All that is left of the houses on the island is the bare walls and the
greens that used to surround them are all covered with heather now.
I then walked down to Domhnull Baag (Wee Donald) Alastair’s house. Again
I had to force my way through six feet high ferns and bracket to get
there. There used to be a road from the Tober Mor (Big Well) to Bantrach
Uilleam (William’s Widow’s House) but it was not to be seen. I next
came to Tigh Uisdean (Hugh’s House) and browsed around there for a while,
after which I set out for the Church and the schoolhouse.
I looked across at lomair na h-Innse (the Rich Green Pastures), which used to be cultivated, but again there was nothing there but thick wood, ferns and bracken.
I came out at the hilt above the schoolhouse. I went to the Church first
looked through the church house, which is partly demolished, and hen
went into the church. All the seats are gone and also the pulpit. The
walls are bare, but the roofs are still on
the church and church house.
It appeared to me that someone has also been trying to dismantle
the woodwork inside the church house
as the rooms were all disarranged.
I
then went on to the schoolhouse and noted with pleasure the lovely rhubarb
still growing in the garden. From here 1 looked over Cladach (Shore)
way. The tide was out and the view was still as~ magnificent as I remembered
it. I noted with pleasant surprise that there was still signs of
the den we built for catching cuddies. I proceeded to
Alâstair Beag’s (Wee Alex’s) house, from there to Alastair Dearg’s (Red
Alex’s) house and then on to Murdo Nicolson’s. My next stop was
at the big well ‘Tober Mor”.
The water in this lovely well was still as clear and beautiful
as I remembered it to
be. The wall surrounding it which
was built by the late Domhnuil
(Donald) Alastalr MacLeod was still intact. There were a lot of sheep
grazing all over the place, and especially on Choc Nan Caorach (the
Sheep Hill). Again the ferns and bracken were impassable and I could
not get through from the “Tober Mor” to our own house. In my day there
was a road leading from the “Tober Mor” to our house, but I could not
find it and so I went by way of the Bealach Glas (Green Gateway) to
Domhnull Alastair’s (Donald Alex’s) house and finally reached my old
home. Perhaps you can imagine a little of how I felt at this point.
I was on my own on an island which used to ring with the sound of children
playing and laughing. Memories crowded round and I felt rather sad and
depressed. I went down on my knees at the end of our old house and thanked
God that He had spared me and brought me back to this beloved spot once
more, perhaps for the last time. I next visited our old barn. The green
in front of it; where we used to play. is now completely covered with
heather, I looked towards the Lon Mor (Big Lawn). In my day it had not
been possible to get from Tigh Alastair Beag’s (Wee Alex’s House) to
Lon Mor because of the marshy ground. You had to go round by the Iodhlaan
Mor (the Big Meadows). This ground is no longer marshy but as solid
as can be.
To
summarise my visit, and to give an idea of how Acarsaid Thioram is looking.
I would say, first of all, that when I approached the place it looked
much smaller than I remembered it. I think this was due to the fact that
where there were once large expanses of green there was now thick woods
and high ferns and bracken. It was sad too to see only ruins of the
houses where once my friends had lived. The
harbour still looked lovely, but so silent and deserted, whereas I remembered
it as a hive of activity,
with boats sailing in and out and always someone on the shore.
My next move was to
try to get back to the coast to join the ‘Active' again. I had found
difficulty getting through the trees, ferns, and bracken coming up;
it was even worse trying to get back. Eventually however, 1 reached
the shore. I got on board once more and we set off back to Raasay again
going by the east side, and fishing as we went along. When we came to
Kyle Rona the wind rose from the west and it started to pour. When
we came to Hallaig the lines were hauled in and the engine was set at
full speed. We arrived back at Suishnish at about 10
p.m. I was soaked through
but very happy and content. We had a good catch of fish —
over 200, including mackerel, saith (coley) and cod, and the fishing
that I had thoroughly enjoyed but the highlight of my outing was the
hour I spent with my memories on Rona.
This article appeared in the
“Scots Magazine” in 1969.
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These black and white
pictures of Rona and its last permanent residents prior to their leaving
in the late 1940s, were taken in the summers of 1933 and 1934 by the
University College Dundee. The geologist, Charles Davidson, was pioneer
and guide and the leader was Professor A.D. Peacock. Colin Gibson
(Nature Notes, Sunday Post) was invited to accompany the group as
artist. Many photographs were taken and we are grateful to Dundee
University for their cooperation in allowing us to reproduce some of
them here. Also, special thanks to Rob Ward (Yacht Tub) for his
detective work in finding them. Unfortunately reels of cine film
mentioned in their report were not found.
The
MacRaes were the last crofters on Rona - Christopher, Hamish and their
sister Flora. They moved from Rona to the Kyle area in the late 1940s.
