This article appeared in the "Scots Magazine" in 1969. RONA REVISITED
After 42 years away, Duncan MacSwan visits Rona again, recalling the scenes
of his youth. His account is as follows:
I was brought up on the island of Rona at Acarsaid Thioram (Dry
Harbour), but I left there forty two years ago. My boyhood days there
were happy and I have many cherished memories of life on that island.
Earning a living on Rona was not an easy task. The ground was difficult
to work and in spring and harvest especially life was hard but the
people worked together, helping each other as much as they could, and
this, and the friendliness which existed between everyone, made things
easier. Owing to the layout of the crofts it was not possible to use
horses and so cultivation was done manually, and hard work it was too.
Seaweed used for manure. This was brought in boats to the shore and
discharged when the fide was right. We carried this seaweed on our backs
up to the crofts. This meant that we had to stop our work on the crofts
and use time, which we could ill afford, carrying creels up to the rocky
shore. This task of collecting and discharging the seaweed usually took
up to ten to twelve days during this time all the able bodied folk on
the island worked liked Trojans carrying this seaweed up the rocky
slopes to the cultivated patches. There were eight crofts at Acarsaid
Thioram some with two families in one croft. There was at one time, to
my memory eighteen families there including the missionary and the
teacher.
Every Thursday at 12 noon the late Alexander MacLennan, who was the missionary for many years on
Rona, held his weekly prayer meeting and it was always well attended.
Everyone stopped work and went faithfully to this meeting including the
people from Dronaguila which is situated about three miles from Acarsaid
Thioram, and the one family from Acarsaid Mor (Big Harbour). Although
life was hard for these people they still found time to give thanks in
to their Maker and remain faithful in their beliefs.
As time passed on, most of the young people both male and female, decided to spread their wings and
set off for the big cities in various parts of the world. This meant
that the population of Rona consisted mainly at middle-aged and elderly
and they found it even more difficult to cultivate the rocky ground and
earn themselves a living with few young people to help them.
Portree on the Isle of Skye was the nearest shopping centre and was reached by sailing boat One
great benefits about Rona was that there were was plenty of harbours
surrounding the island and no matter what wind was blowing it was
possible to sail right into one of them. Lobster fishing was very good
in the winter and herring was to be found in every loch at times. The
Board of Agriculture often visited the island. I have seen them there
many times and they always promised the people that they would let them
have land, and new houses, on the south end of Raasay but they never did
keep their word.
In 1914 the war broke out. Many of the young lads were called to the Colours, including the writer,
but when we returned, after the Board of Agriculture had still not
fulfilled their promise. Life on the island had not got any easier, so
in March 1921under the guidance of John M. MacLeod, now residing at
Clachan, Raasay, seven men from Acarsaid Thioram raided the land on the
south end of Raasay namely Fearns and Eyre and finally as we all know,
after much trial and tribulations, they were allowed to stay there.
The Board of Agriculture was then forced to buy the island of Raasay from the Bairds, the
proprietors at that time. The people from Rona settled in various parts
of the south end of Raasay, some of them going back to the places where
their fore fathers had been until the Clearance of the Highlands when
they had been forced to leave the good land in Raasay and attempt to
make a living among the rocks on Rona. As a consequence the island of
Rona became uninhabited within a few years from that date, with the
exception of the lighthouse keepers who still remain on the north-east
coast of Rona.I returned to Rona after
the war but left again in June 1921, came to Glasgow and joined the
Merchant Navy and sailed out through the Bristol Channel to France. In
January 19221 joined the City of Glasgow Police and since then have made
my home in Glasgow. In 1923, while on holiday in Fearns, Raasay my
uncle, John MacSwan, and I set out in a small boat for Rona. At this
time there was still three families left at Acarsaid Thioram and my
uncle and I spent a night there with my two aunts. That was the last
time I visited this island which was home to me and where I spent many
happy days. But it has always been my desire to revisit Rona. and
particularly Acarsaid Thioram, for my affections for this island go deep
and I remember with love the dear friends, many of them now departed,
who shared with me the years I spent there. This desire to visit Rona
once more did not lessen with the years, but the opportunity never came
my way until this year, white on holiday in Raasay. I was invited by
John M. MacLeod, Calum Gitiies and Murdo MacLean to join them in a
fishing trip as far as Rona. I was thrilled at the prospect of this trip
for they promised they would put me ashore at Acarsaid Thioram and let
me visit my old home again.
We set off about 10am on Friday, 30th July 1965 armed with food and fishing tackle, it was a lovely
sunny day and the sea was calm. We got on board the "Active" and set off
down the east side of Raasay. The island of Rona is six miles long and three
miles broad and lies about 20.22 miles northwards by sea from the south end
of Raasay. When we got to Fearns the engine was slowed down and the lines
put out. We fished right along the coast and as we got to the south end of
Kyle-Rona. on a small island called Sgeir nan Eun (the Birds' Rock) we
spotted a seal basking in the sunshine. Whenever he saw us he dived into the
sea but not before Murdo MacLean, who had his rifle with him had fired at
him. He missed him by inches. Murdo and John decided they would like to go
ashore on Sgeir nan Eun to see if there were any more seals about so the
fishing lines were hauled in and Murdo and John went ashore. Calum and I
waited in the boat until they came back. They got on board and just as we
were about to set off again another seal appeared close to Sgeir nan Eun.
Murdo grabbed his rifle and fired and this time he wounded the seal, but the
seal dived quickly and disappeared. Seconds later he appeared again, Murdo
fired and killed him. We took the dead seal on board and proceeded to
Dornaguila where we went ashore at Rhu an Eireionnach (the Irish Point).
John M. MacLeod went off to see where he was born and brought up and, while
he was away. Calum made a fire and boiled the kettle. The tea was ready by
the time John arrived back and we all tucked in and thoroughly enjoyed our
lunch. When we had finished we went on board once more, the engine was
started and the lines put out again. When we came to Port Doire nan Earba
(the Roe Deer Port) I was put ashore while the rest carried on northwards.
They said they would go on fishing until I was ready to come aboard.
On going ashore I was amazed to discover that all the cultivated parts were now a thick wood and
whole place was covered with ferns and bracken. The road which used to lead
up to the houses was not to be found and I had great difficulty in getting
through the ferns and bracken which, in some places was taller than myself.
However I persevered and eventually emerged from the wood about 50 yards
from MacKay's house. The first thing that met me was a dead lamb. I then
proceeded to Aunt Peggy's and Aunt Mary's house and examined round about
there. All that is ten of the houses on the island is the bare walls and the
greens that used to surround them are all covered with heather now. I then
walked down to Domhnull Baag (Wee Donald) Alastair's house Again I had to
force my way through six feet high ferns and bracket to get there. There
used to be a road from the Tober Mor (Big Well) to Bantrach UHteam
(William's Widow's House) but it was not to be seen. I next came to Tigh
Uisdean (Hugh's House) and browsed around there for a while, after which I
set out for the Church and the schoolhouse.
I looked across at lomair na h~lnnse (the Rich Green Pastures), which used to be cultivated, but again
there was nothing there but thick wood, ferns and bracken. I came out at the
hilt above the schoolhouse. I went to the Church first looked through the
church house, which is partly demolished, and hen went into the church. All
the seats are gone and also the pulpit. The walls are bare, but the roofs
are still on the church and church house. It appeared to me that someone has
also been trying to dismantle the woodwork inside the church house as the
rooms were all disarranged.
I then went on to the schoolhouse and noted with pleasure the lovely rhubarb still growing in the
garden. From here 1 looked over Cladach (Shore) way. The tide was out and
the view was still as- magnificent as I remembered it. I noted with pleasant
surprise that there was still signs of the den we built for catching
cuddies. I proceeded to Alastair Beag's (Wee Alex's) house, from there to
Alastair Dearg's (Red Alex's) house and then on to Murdo Nicolson's. My next
stop was at the big well 'Tober Mor". The water in this lovely well was still as dear and beautiful as I remembered it to
be, The wall surrounding it which was built by the late Domhnuit (Donald)
Alastair MacLeod was still intact. There were a lot of sheep grazing all
over the place, and especially on Choc Nan Caorach (the Sheep Hill). Again
the ferns and bracken were impassable and I could not get through from the
"Tober Mor" to our own house. In my day there was a road leading from the
"Tober Mor" to our house, but I could not find it and so I went by way of
the Bealach Glas (Green Gateway) to Domhnull Alastair's (Donald Alex's)
house and finally reached my old home. Perhaps you can imagine a little of
how I felt at this point. I was on my own on an island which used to ring
with the sound of children playing and laughing. Memories crowded round and
I felt rather sad and depressed. I went down on my knees at the end of our
old house and thanked God that He had spared me and brought me back to this
beloved spot once more, perhaps for the last time. I next visited our old
barn. The green in front of it, where we used to play, is now completely
covered with heather, I looked towards the Lon Mor (Big Lawn). In my day it
had not been possible to get from Tigh Alastair Beag's (Wee Alex's House) to
Lon Mor because of the marshy ground. You had to go round by the lodhlaan
Mor (the Big Meadows). This ground is no longer marshy but as solid as can
be.
To summarise my visit, and to give an idea of how Acarsaid Thioram is looking. I would say, first of
all, that I approached the place it looked much smaller than I remembered
it. I think this was due to the fact that where there were once large
expanses of green there was now thick woods and high ferns and bracken. It
was sad too to see only ruins of the houses where once my friends had lived.
The harbour still looked lovely, but so silent and deserted, whereas I
remembered it as a hive of activity, with boats sailing in and out and
always someone on the shore.
My next move was to try to et back to the coast to join the 'Active' again. I had found difficulty
getting through the trees, ferns, and bracken coming up; it was even worse
trying to get back. Eventually however, I reached the shore. I got on board
once more and we set off beck to Raasay again going by the east side, and
fishing as we went along. When we came to Kyle Rona the wind rose from the
west and it started to pour. When we came to Hallaig the lines were hauled
in and the engine was set at full speed. We arrived back at Suishnish at
about 10 p.m. I was soaked through but very happy and content. We had a good
catch offish over 200, including mackerel, saith (coley) and cod,
and the fishing that I had thoroughly enjoyed but the highlight of my outing
was the hour I spent with my memories on Rona.